My Finale

I spent the last couple of days of my adventure in Amsterdam...on a houseboat. Since visiting the city back in September I was enchanted by the charming houseboats lining the canals. When I learned they could be rented I made a silent commitment to myself to come back to one. Due to the French strike against extending retirement age by 2 years, my departure from Spain was delayed by 2 days and thus my time on the houseboat severely limited. When I finally arrived my host showed me my quarters which were adorable. It was set outside of the city in a residential island with other houseboats. The bakery around the corner had amazing croissants, pastries and coffee. After getting settled in I went to dinner at a quiet cafe with candlelight, a glass of wine and three course dinner including oysters three ways. The next day I wandered over to the Waterlooplein Flea Market next to a canal with its hodgepodge of old and new. I investigated the used book tent, elbowing old men perusing Dutch titles while I scoured the stacks for English.
It was cold outside when I returned to my houseboat flat, turned on the radiator and opened a bottle of wine. My last night in Europe I celebrated with cheeses from the tiny Dutch market, olives and other snacks. The sun set while I sat in the wheelhouse reading my book.
I spent 85 days visiting 11 countries. There are important lessons learned while traveling an extended period of time that translate to my life in the future. Patience is imperative. Waiting for trains, delays, mono linguistic disability (my American defect), spontaneous plan changes all require patience. I learned to free myself to savor small details and stop looking at the clock. I figured out it was ok to dance when I have no rhythm because it's FUN. Laughter makes me happy and brightens me from the inside out- no matter how loud it gets. And it is infectious. I visited places and saw things I had always wanted to see. But I became empowered by the journey.

Espana

I have spent the last three weeks exploring, lounging in and embracing Spain. From the Catalunyan region to Madrid and south to Andalucia it has become my home.
I arrived in Barcelona for a short visit before I left for Madrid. I instantly fell in love with the city so I knew I would return. With Gaudi's designs seemingly springing out of some whimsical dream onto street lamps, buildings and even the sidewalks it felt as if the city was breathing art. I went for a walk along the beach, sat at a cafe watching jets practice for an air show over the water and realized how significant this moment, this place is. I would come back to Barcelona before leaving Spain to really soak in the city and explore the avenues, alleys and squares. There is a great square called the George Orwell Plaza- actually shaped in a triangle- where my friend Melissa and I ate at a couple cafes, had a beer in a bar where the tables and walls were decorated with street art and sat around people watching. The city is magnificent for its mix of people, poor and rich, art students, old bums hanging around chatting in Catalon and everything in between.
I've already mentioned Madrid, but it was from there I took the day trip to Toledo to explore the walled city. In addition to visiting the mosque, museums and other sites I was on a quest for marsapan. Not ordinary marsapan- this was something special I stumbled on through my limited research. In some of the convents in Toledo the nuns make special dessert treats out of marsapan and sell them directly from the convent as they are not allowed to leave. I had a list of some of the convents and made it my mission to find them. This is a very old tradition that is at risk of dying out unless it is supported so naturally I wanted to do my part. It involved a delicate process of locating the convent, ringing the intercom out front and when answered asking to enter for "dulces" and then finding the secret window inside where they would sell them. Well I did find a convent and it was every bit as exciting and quaint as I imagined. Once inside there was a cabinet with all the sweets available and next to that a window which the nun opened to accept our request. All I can tell you is that was the best marsapan I have ever tasted and I will never look at almonds the same.
Heading south I visited Seville and Granada. There is an entirely different air about Andalucia. The architectural influence of the Moors, the beautiful ceramic tiles, relaxed atmosphere all inspire a traveler to slow down.
For me Spain is art, music, history and so much more- but above all Spain is passion. There is a passion for their culture whether it is Catalunyans fighting for independence from Spain, a flamenco show in Seville, laying on the cafe con leche colored sand at Sitges watching sailboats dance on the water or a siesta so we can eat dinner at 10pm and go dancing until 5am- it's passion.
I'm inspired by Spain- motivated to study life and art, slow down to savor my glass of wine and good conversation, challenge myself to continue growing.
See you soon Spain, you'll always be mi amor.

Serendipity

I have been traveling just over two months now. In the interest of full disclosure I have to say I sometimes get fatigued by the adventure. I fully realize this is the opportunity of a lifetime. There are moments like when I was sitting at a cafe on the beach in Barcelona a couple days ago, watching jets practice for an air show, drinking a strawberry mojito that I couldn't believe my path had taken me here. And then there are moments when I am tired, mentally washed out from navigating and I want to hop a plane back to the States. Every single time I get in that mode something happens serendipitously to remind me how much fun this actually is.

I am currently staying in Madrid with a friend I met while volunteering in Iceland at the beginning of my journey. She was cool enough to offer me a place in her flat during my time in Madrid. Guiomar and her brother have given me tips on places I should see and entertained my attempts at Espanol.

Yesterday I decided to take a day trip to El Escorial to see the little town and visit the Monastery that is quite famous. I made the train trip out only to find the Monastery was closed on Mondays- like most museums in Spain. It was a breezy, cool day and I was feeling dejected about not having done my homework while I wandered around the quaint little town at the base of the mountains. Looking for a spot for lunch I saw a little gourmet shop with a chalkboard out front and a meat counter inside. It looked gourmet, everything was in Spanish and I hesitated to enter. Overcoming my trepidation I entered and ordered a bocadillo de jamon serrano con queso when it was my turn. There was an amazing tiny selection of Spanish food in jars and cases. One guy worked the counter slicing ham and filling orders. He sliced the baguette lengthwise for my sandwich and asked me something in Spanish about being a student. When I told him I didn't speak Spanish he asked me in English where I was from. Turns out the little store was family run for four generations and he was from the little town. We had a great visit and my spirits were immediately lifted- the fantastic sandwich was a bonus. Serendipity.

Today I stayed around Madrid and visited the Prado Museum. This place is amazing, huge and full of delicious art. It's also four stories and a labyrinth of fine paintings. Following the Prado I ventured into the Botanical Gardens for a long stroll. For the second time in as many days I was feeling pretty tired and thinking about that plane ticket back to familiarity. I decided it was time for a treat to bolster my mood. A friend of my cousin's from Spain had recommended a restaurant that is locally owned and has really great food. I went to search it out only to find it opened for dinner at Spanish time (i.e. late). I decided to go have a glass of wine and come back. But while I was walking away I saw a woman looking at the menu for the place and something made me hold back for a minute. I waited to see what she did and when she spoke to her friend in English I mentioned to her that the place was highly recommended by someone in the know and maybe they should come back when it opened. Again, we started talking and decided to all go together to the Boqueria for wine and tapas to wait out dinner time. The girls (in their early 60's) were a hoot. One was a high school Spanish teacher and one a former catering company owner, both from Lacrosse Wisconsin. We had a great time chatting and joking. Karen and Lil brightened my spirits and reminded me, again, that sharing serendipitous moments with interesting people are what my adventure is all about. Salud!

Italy in 3 Parts

I am going to confidently say that anyone that doesn't admire Italy- specifically Venice- has a cold, dark, tar-like substance for a heart. It's absolutely as beautiful and intense as I had heard.

I spent a couple days in Innsbruck, Austria before heading to Venice by train. About 30 minutes before arrival time I got the nervous jitters like a kid's first visit to Disneyland. I was actually going to be in Venice! Stepping out of the train station into the watery city was spectacular. The vaporetto (water bus) stop right out front, the massive foot bridge over the canal and the hordes of people all seemed like a dream. My dad had booked a great little hotel away from the insanity of the tourist traps which was a wonderful respite to come back to each night. Wending my way through alleys and canals, getting lost and discovering some quaint piazza were all part of the magic that is Venice. I ate gelato every day (sometimes twice) and had my best meal of the trip in Venice. Drinking bellinis or experiencing campari pre-dinner cocktails alongside a canal for the first time are some of the memories I will cherish forever.

Next stop ROMA! Although I was forewarned of the dirty, bustling streets that are Rome it still felt overwhelming. It wasn't until a visit to the Colosseum that my appreciation for Rome awakened. Walking the ancient ruins of the Forum and seeing ancient cathedrals in person was traipsing through a history book. I believe Rome is just massive and overrun with tourists and next time I would love to find someone that knows the hidden gems of local Roma.

Last stop Firenze! I loved this place. Florence doesn't have the quaint postcard facade of Venice, but set in Tuscany with rolling hills behind the Ponte Vecchio Bridge it is amazing. It is a great walking city and I loved wandering the tiny corridors. Of course a visit to the world famous Uffizi Museum was mandatory. I actually saw Botticelli's Birth of Venus in person.

I had many emotions approaching a visit to Italy. Coming from a family of passionate Italians (no matter how diluted it may be now) I wanted to understand the culture, embrace it and be welcomed. I was also weary of the Italian reputation. I was most nervous about traveling in this country because I wanted to love it so much and I hoped it would embrace me like the long lost 1/4 Sicilian I am. When I got to Italy I bought a small Italian phrasebook. I absolutely loved trying to order food, greet people or figure things out in Italian. Sometimes it worked and sometimes they had NO idea what I meant. Either way Italy is in my blood- literally and figuratively.